Make Way: 5 Paris Fashion Week Menswear Newcomers and How to Watch Their Shows - Lookbook

Expect more color, childlike aesthetics, and inspiration from punk.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week began yesterday. And so far, the Fall 2022 season, which prompted in Milan, has served a new meaning to “sexy” menswear (JW Anderson), a snub to formal tailoring (Tod’s), and Jeff Goldblum funnily closing the Prada show.

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While PFW regulars like Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Dior, and Rick Owens are all scheduled to showcase new collections, there are new kids on the block getting ready for their first walks on one of the world’s foremost fashion weeks.

Here are six of them, from a spinoff brand of Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements to the label of an LVMH Young Designers award recipient.

BIANCA SAUNDERS

Bianca Saunders built her eponymous brand right after graduating from London’s Royal College of Art in 2017. A year later, she made her fashion week debut in the UK capital and has been doing so for several seasons. Today, she’ll be showcasing her signature collections in Paris for the first time, which convey gender fluidity, merged with her West Indian ethnicity. 

The show is happening on January 19, 10AM CET. You can watch the livestream here.

KIDSUPER

When Kidsuper’s Colm Dillane moved to New York, he told Complex that he had to “define his own version of cool” as someone who felt like he didn’t fit in. Through his brand, Dillane makes pieces with bold colors, patterns, and mismatched shapes—garments not worn for fitting in but for standing out.

The show is happening on January 22, 8PM CET. You can watch the livestream here.

DOUBLET

Doublet is helmed by Masayuki Ino, LVMH’s 2018 Young Designers award winner. The first Japanese recipient of the recognition may stand out from the Paris Fashion Week roster, given his less serious approach to design. Ino injects a childlike aesthetic into his pieces, like coats with animal ears attached to its hoods and stuffed toys seemingly melded into tote bags.

The show is happening on January 23, 1:30PM CET. You can watch the livestream here.

EGONLAB

Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix are the French duo behind Egonilab. Beyond designers, they call themselves visual and graphic artists and music producers. They’re heavily influenced by the punk movement while being dedicated to opening conversations about “total inclusivity, about age, gender, about body shapes.” 

True to their contrary views of what society deems “normal,” Nompeix tells Hypebest, “you don’t have to be scared about judgment because we have the chance to have exposure and a voice. I think a brand has to create a real universe. We have punk DNA, and we are iconoclastic. If you say yes, we want to say no.” 

The show happened on January 18. You can see the full collection here.

VTMNTS

From the makers of Vetements, Demna Gvasalia introduces a spinoff of her label with VTMNTS. In contrast to Vetements’ loud streetwear offerings and love for statement branding, its sibling brand is meant to take a more minimal route.

The show is happening on January 21, 7:30PM CET. You can watch the livestream here.

Banner photo from @egon_lab on Instagram

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