The woman who turned Celine into a coveted brand is making a fashion comeback—but now on her own terms for a namesake brand with LVMH.
After leaving her post as Celine’s artistic director for 10 years, Phoebe Philo took a well-deserved three-year break. It was merited after she sprung the luxury label to It brand status with, but certainly not limited to, the 2010 Luggage Tote and convincing Joan Didion to pose for their 2015 Spring campaign.
However, it was not without being longingly missed. In 2017, shortly after departure from the French house, an Instagram account with the handle @oldceline manifested. It became the virtual spot where over 370,000 unsatiated fans, buyers, stylists, and editors reminisced on their favorite Celine pieces and campaigns under Philo.
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And now, on her own terms, she’s back. With LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minor investor, the England native is launching a new eponymous label.
“I am very happy to partner with Phoebe on her entrepreneurial adventure,” LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault said in his statement to Women’s Wear Daily. The fashion tycoon considers Philo as “one of the most talented designers of our time.” Celine, Christian Dior, Givenchy, and Bulgari are some of the other brands under Arnault’s wing.
LVMH’s minority stake will ensure Philo has the creative freedom to design and operate her brand as she pleases. She told Business of Fashion that it’s a “natural progression” to partner with the luxury retail group after her decade-long stint at Celine.
What we can expect
In February last year, WWD reported that Philo might be readying her own collection focusing on sustainability. At the time, the designer didn’t respond to requests for comment.
Now that we know the rumors are true, the 48-year-old reveals that she’s creating clothing and accessories. Like her previous work, she adds that the pieces will be “rooted in exceptional quality and design.”
From “exceptional quality,” we can expect high-end pricing. And in terms of design, we can anticipate Philo to stay rooted in her minimalist, artistically honed design principles. Philo says that more details on the brand will be divulged in January 2022.
Banna photo from @eyesmag on Instagram.