Hill of Spring: The Colorful City of Tel Aviv in Israel -

Up until the Cathay Pacific flight landed in Tel Aviv, Israel was a biblical place of tradition and Jewish culture. Reports on conflict and violence have not placed it high on the list of preferred destinations but CX’s new route was an incentive worth taking up. After a restful stretch of almost 12 hours from Hong Kong, the plane touched down to a day that was just beginning. It was the start of many discoveries and unexpected adventure.

Pretty Pink Poison


The Ben-Gurion Airport was the first surprise. Terminal 3 is modern and efficient, a hub for international carriers. Considered one of the top five best Middle Eastern airports, it is well secured by a compliment of uniformed and undercover personnel. The facility rates high in passenger experience with fast moving lines at immigration and commodious public spaces.

We stepped out into cool weather and sunshine, warmly greeted by our guide Tami, who unfolded history in stories and conversation full of information. She was energetic, enthusiastic, knowledgeable and kind; Tami became the face of Israel for the duration of the trip. She drove towards the city, pointing out trees along the way with pink poison flowers that grew uncultivated. We passed through a neighborhood kibbutz, a clustering of people who shared an ideology that valued community over individuality.

When the urban skyline became visible, Tammy’s commentaries turned to the development of high rises. Housing developments were upward. “People are foregoing dreams of little houses with red roofs,” she said, citing the limited land space. A road trip from four to six hours could cover the entire Israel. The development of a public transportation system was off to a belated start and projected to take several years before completion.

The original stone walls and ceilings of an old building, are now part of a restaurant
The original stone walls and ceilings of an old building, are now part of a restaurant
After Sunset, Benedict has a party atmosphere with night habitues
After Sunset, Benedict has a party atmosphere with night habitues

The Taste of Shakshouka

The first order of the day was breakfast and we stopped at Benedict on the corner of Ben Yehuda and Rothschild Boulevard. It was busy and pretty, the first two impressions that were superseded by the discovery of food that now belong to best memories. Breakfast is a big event in the restaurant that changed the first meal of the day into a 24-hour specialty. A consecutive seven-time top placer in Time Out’s Eating and Drinking awards, Benedict offers servings from around the world. It was, however, the local shakshouka that made the culinary introduction to Israeli food. There are different versions of the tomato-based dish with eggs in other countries but the first in Israel was unforgettable.  It was like a vegetable ragout or a ratatouille, rich with flavors of spices.

It was necessary to walk the fullness down Rothschild Avenue, Tel Aviv’s famous street with a pedestrian lane in the middle of two roads, lined with trees and park benches. The length runs through the financial center, and is the address of galleries, fine-dining restaurants and notable architectural buildings.

Near Hertzel Street are the eclectic chic design of early 20th century preferences. Villas, known as Houses of Dreams, stand as a testament to the influences of neo Mediterranean neo Greek, neo Roman and local Arab influences. Tel Aviv, however, is known as the Bauhaus capital for the many buildings in the this particular school of design. German Jewish architects built over 4,000 geometric structures with smooth, white facades and small windows. This collection is known as White City, the largest concentration of the International style in the world.


Jaffa is the oldest part of Tel Aviv with an ancient part where Jonah boarded a ship to get away from God's assignment to him
Jaffa is the oldest part of Tel Aviv with an ancient part where Jonah boarded a ship to get away from God’s assignment to him

Shopping Streets

There were many boutiques in the area with a strong art vibe. Shops selling apparel, accessories, food and gift items were design driven, making each a unique creative expression. It was the same around the vicinity of the Market House Hotel, our address in Jaffa. The charming, boutique hotel on Beit Eshel Street had glass floors that looked down to the ruins of a Byzantine Church that once stood there.

The hotel was nicely located near interesting boutiques like the Let & Her, which carried a well-curated collection of home décor, art, clothes, bags and accessories. A nearby art gallery had metal cutouts that the artist proprietor was also selling in New York. Shops carried beauty and body care products made with dead sea minerals.

It was a short walk away to the Clock Tower, a significant landmark built at the end of the last century during the Ottoman Empire. We picked a path into an old world of cobbled alleys in the nearby Flea Market with hand made Arabian carpets, curios and furniture.

Not too far off was Maskit, a leading fashion name for luxury women’s wear. The brand was launched in 1954 by Ruth Dayan, the wife of the late President Moshe Dayan.  She tapped skilled immigrants to Israel to create textiles, accessories and objets d’art that were well received by the international market. The likes of Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue carried Maskit’s designs including the iconic Desert Coat, in it’s many variations. Maskit made it to the pages of Vogue magazine but the greatest achievement of Ruth, who is still actively involved even now in her 90s, is the empowerment of women and the promotion of world-class ethnic crafts and apparel.

Noshe Dayan's wife Ruth established Maskit in 1954 to provide work opportunities for immigrants
Noshe Dayan’s wife Ruth established Maskit in 1954 to provide work opportunities for immigrants

Artisanal Art

A short car ride to the reconstructed Old Train Station brought us to complex at 1 Koifman Street. What used to be the very first rail station in the Middle East is now a cluster of art galleries, restaurants, specialty stores. The HaTachana was constructed in 1892 and covered 35 miles between Jaffa and Jerusalem. It fell to disuse until the place was rehabilitated some years ago. The cargo terminal, a brick factory, an Arab-style house and a villa were repurposed for entertainment and leisure establishments that bring in families, local residents and tourists. There are street performances on weekends with jugglers, acrobats, musicians and clowns doing 30 minute shows.

Within the vicinity is a park, with facilities for an outdoor work out. Fitness is a way of life that is encouraged and gauging from the people who on the cardio and muscle strengthening equipment, it is part of the norm.

There were more arts and crafts in the Nahalat Binyamin, the pedestrian mall where tables displayed hand-made items, from decorative pieces to accessories, paper products and metal works, ceramics, wood and stone sculptures. Later, we explored another street bazaar beside the hotel that had different artisanal merchandise. One table had a pile of books that appeared free for the taking, but were all in Hebrew.

Carpets are rolled out on the streets by night fall when restaurants bring out tables and chairs for al fresco dining
Carpets are rolled out on the streets by night fall when restaurants bring out tables and chairs for al fresco dining
Maskit's mood board draws inspiration from the sea
Maskit’s mood board draws inspiration from the sea

Where Tabitha Returned from Death

Exploring Jaffa recalled scripture references as the place where King Solomon brought in the cedars he used to build the Lord’s temple. This southern and oldest part of Tel Aviv is a natural harbor and the trees were transported through here from Tyre. Jonah, the reluctant prophet, boarded a boat in Jaffa for Tarshish, to run from God and the mission entrusted to him, into the belly of a whale.

It was also here in Jaffa that Peter the apostle, stayed in the house of Simon the Tanner, which was marked by a sign but was not open to visitors. Peter brought the deceased Tabitha back to life here in Jaffa and a church, now run by the Franciscans, was built to mark the occasion and the location. It stands on a hill overlooking the waters.

Along the stonewall is one of the vantage places to catch the sun setting over the waters. It is breathtaking to behold, inviting a moment of quiet or a psalm of praise.

Dance Bars

Tel Aviv is diverse and its eclecticism was further experienced in Puaa, a café that resembles a home with mix-matched furniture. Seafood and ambiance are the specialty of the house. There are tables and chairs outside as well as indoor. The place looks spontaneously put together with things from different people’s residences, yet it conveys a feeling of being in a favorite aunt’s homestead where there are no rules except to have fun.

Nighttime transforms the city into a party place. People are dining alfresco. There is music, all kinds, being played at the different bars and restaurants. We went to a couple of clubs where dancing was part of the action. The places were packed and the activities diverse. A video game machine stood in front of an art space within the premises of the bar. There was an ongoing exhibition. Somewhere, there was a small makeshift section posing as a store for curios. People were casually attired or very stylish. There was no dress code and the crowd, we were told, stayed till early morning, even on weekdays.

After visiting two nightspots, jet lag took a toll. Much had been covered in 15 hours but already Israel was looking so differently from just one day in Tel Aviv.

SEE MORE PHOTOS FROM TEL AVIV…

Text and photography by Anna Isabel C. Sobrepena 

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